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MEXICO, Veracruz, Oct 27- Nov 4, 2009. The miracle of a Todos Santos “Day of the Dead” celebration in Veracruz, Mexico is that while parts may be somber, they are never sad, while they are irreverent, they are never irreligious. Memorial services as Europeans may think of them are rarely full of joie-de-vivre - here in Veracruz they are more New Orleans than New Testament, color, creativity and expression overwhelming morbidity and recrimination in a tide of released tension.
Making the souls of the dead feel welcome as they return for a yearly visit, Mexicans in this tropical state offer not only elaborate feasts and flower-filled altars, but dancing as well. Masked bands of performers called cuadrillos rehearse for months their choreography, rich with symbolic roles for men, women, devils, and death itself, then over the course of two nights regale both graveyards and city streets with whoops of laughter, raise-the-roof dancing and music until dawn. That those who on the surface seem to be laughing at death also manage to pay it the greatest respect is wonderfully healthy, and a uniquely Mexican approach to being only human in a complicated world.













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